Surfing

by Keone Young

But for us it was always living one with the Aina, the land and the waters surrounding us. To get up on the long board and to smell the salt water and the "limo", the seaweed, gave us life and a reason to live. To feel the presence of the Gods Kanaloa, Lono, Maui, Pele, Mo'o as you rode through the gods beautiful creation. The Wave. With Leahi or Kaimana Hila (Diamond Head) in the background. And after the sundown to eat a plate lunch listening to the Old Timers play Hawaiian music under the Banyan Tree. The songs of the surf and of finding love and of place names and our Kings and Queens. Liliu'E, Kawika, Kaahumanu. To go home at nite with a coat of salt and sand between your toes. Sleeping in bed at nite with a tinge of burn. We'd dream of tomorrows sun rise over the Ocean we loved, hoping our lives would not end because of some anger in the gods who would take us to the bottom of the sea. We revered the sea and showed respect when we ever entered it.